Consuming LA

May 18, 2012 · 11:15 am

Killer Views, Disappointing Chews

I was a fan of Wolfgang Puck and his restaurants, Spago and Chinois on Main, in the ’80s when they were at the forefront of innovate upscale cuisine. However, with everything that is going on food-wise these days, I think of Puck’s cuisine as dated and not particularly interesting or exciting. Nevertheless, I was curious and hopeful about WP24, Puck’s fancy modern Chinese restaurant that opened last year on the 24th floor of the Ritz Carlton in LA Live, and decided to take my wife there for our anniversary. The views at night from WP24, which are of the illuminated skyscrapers of Downtown, are perhaps the best of any restaurant in the city. But while I loved the spectacular views, I cannot say the same of the restaurant as a whole. WP24 unfortunately reminded me of many of the upscale restaurants I’ve eaten at in Las Vegas hotels — incredibly overpriced, conservative and food that is generally OK, but nothing to write home about.

While WP24 formerly offered both an a la carte menu, as well as 6 and 9 course tasting menus (which I would have preferred), the menu now consists of only a 3 or 4 course prix fixe dinner with several choices for each course and some optional side dishes. With drinks (cocktails are a pricey $16 a pop), you’re looking at a cost of around $150-$225 per person, a lot for Chinese food! Most of the appetizers are dim sum and we ordered an assortment of 5 different dumplings plus an additional order of Steamed Scallop and Shrimp Sui Mai. The Dim Sum was all very delicious except for the Sui Mai which tasted fishy and not fresh at all. As an entree, my wife got the Maine Black Cod Broiled with Chinese Ginseng Honey with Roasted Black Sesame Vinaigrette and Chili-Orange Noodles. The noodles were way too sweet but otherwise the dish was OK. I ordered WP24’s signature dish, the “Angry Lobster,” with Spicy Szechuan Chilies, Fried Garlic, Scallions and Black Dust. I love spicy, but found the sauce way too overpowering for something as delicious as lobster and it upset my usually iron-clad stomach later that night.

The desserts by pastry chef Sally Camacho (who was a finalist on Top Chef Just Desserts last season) were the most creative part of the meal, but, in terms of taste, did not blow me away. At the end of the dinner, I felt as if I should be taking the elevator down to the casino to play blackjack and craps. If I was actually in Vegas maybe I could have won a little money to offset the price of dinner.

WP24 is located at 900 W. Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles (Downtown). If you enjoy Consuming LA, please subscribe, like me on facebook and/or follow me on twitter at the top right of this page. And please forward to your friends!

Amuse Bouche: Curried Seafood Turnover

Tasting of Dim Sum

Steamed Scallop-Shrimp Sui Mai with Blue Crab Ginger Sauce and Chives

"Angry" Two-Pound Maine Lobster

Maine Black Cod Broiled with Chinese Ginseng Honey, Roasted Black Sesame Vinaigrette and Chili-Orange Noodle Salad

Apple Umai (Roasted Market Apple, Star Anise Donuts, Caramel Hojicha Ice Cream)

Rhubarb Yuzu (Mango, Yuzu Ice, Red Rock Dust and Rhubarb Compote)

Killer Views

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Filed under Downtown

Tagged as New Wolfgang Puck Restaurant Downtown, Restaurant with Best Views in Los Angeles, Ritz Carlton Los Angeles Restaurant, Wolfgang Puck Chinese Food, Wolfgang Puck New Restaurant, Wolgang Puck, WP 24, WP 24 Menu, WP 24 Review, WP Restaurant, WP Restaurant Los Angeles, WP24, WP24 Downtown, WP24 Los Angeles, WP24 Menu, WP24 Restaurant, WP24 Review, WP24 Wolfgang Puck

May 11, 2012 · 11:00 am

Magnificent Mediterranean

I love small plates and I love sharing. This is no doubt due to my desire to always hedge my bets, diversify my portfolio and not miss out on trying anything interesting-sounding or potentially good. My wife, on the other hand, does not like to share; she prefers to order only one thing and eat it all by herself. It’s for this reason that I haven’t taken her with me to Mezze, a restaurant whose name is the Arabic term for a selection of small plates which are meant to be shared. The cuisine at Mezze can best be described as Contemporary Mediterranean or Middle Eastern Fusion, somewhat upscale and incredibly delicious. The decor at Mezze, which occupies the old Sona space on La Cienega, perfectly matches the food; warm and exotic yet modern and chic. It’s a great place to go for a special occasion or just a nice evening out with friends.

The best way to start your meal at Mezze is with a libation. Specialty cocktails include the Abdullah Palmer (gin, cachaca, black lime and Moroccan mint tea) and the George Dickel Pickle (whiskey, mustard seed, lemon, celery and serrano pepper), and there is a good wine list including wines from Israel, Lebanon and Morocco. While you’re enjoying your drink, you can select which flatbreads to order as appetizers. I recommend the Zatar with Olive Oil and the Marquez Sausage with Tomato Jam and Aleppo Pepper (it’s like a Middle Eastern pizza). In terms of small (and large) plates, Braised Moroccan Chicken Wings with Picholine Olives and Golden Raisins are excellent, as is the Lamb Shoulder with Smoked Oats and Dukkah Spice (pictured above). The Brussels Sprouts with Soft Boiled Egg and Soujouk are an absolute must-have. For dessert, make sure to get the Lebne Cheesecake with Persimmons, Ginger & Hazelnuts.

Mezze is located at 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles (Mid-City).

UPDATE: Mezze is now closed, but hopefully just temporarily. The massive construction next door has hurt their business significantly. They say they are looking to relocate soon.

Zatar with Olive Oil

Flatbread with Merguez Sausage, Tomato Jam & Aleppo Pepper

Braised Moroccan Chicken Wings with Picholine Olives and Golden Raisins

Brussels Sprouts with Soft Boiled Egg and Soujouk

Lebne Cheesecake with Persimmons, Ginger & Hazelnuts

You can view the kitchen through a giant window

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Filed under Mid-City, West Hollywood

Tagged as Mediterranean Restaurants, Mediterranean Restaurants Los Angeles, Mezze, Mezze Los Angeles, Mezze Los Angeles Menu, Mezze Los Angeles Review, Mezze Menu, Mezze Restaurant, Mezze Review, Mezze West Hollywood, MIcah Wexler, Micah Wexler Mezze, Middle Eastern Restaurants, Middle Eastern Restaurants Los Angeles

May 4, 2012 · 10:40 am

Cheesesteak Challenge

Although I grew up in California, I was born in Philadelphia. Other things that originated in Philadelphia include the Declaration of Independence, the Post Office, the Stock Exchange and Hall & Oates. But Philadelphia’s greatest contribution may just be the cheesesteak. Seasoned and thinly sliced beef, cheese (Provolone, American or Whiz), onions and occasionally peppers or mushrooms, all grilled to perfection and served on a warm soft roll… Who doesn’t like a good cheesesteak?

While the best are found in Philly, there are some very tasty cheesesteaks here in LA and I’ve been on a mission for the past couple months to find the best ones this city has to offer. Although I evaluated bread, meat and cheese, there was another essential element that was key to making the grade here. Philadelphia is the City of Brotherly Love and any great cheesesteak establishment must make you feel at home and provide super friendly and warm service; it’s the Philadelphia way. Of the twenty or so cheesesteak eateries that I visited on my quest, here are my top five favorites:

Figueroa Philly Cheese Steak

1. Figueroa Philly Cheese Steak (3844 S. Figueroa in Downtown) This newcomer has the best service and awesome cheesesteaks. The Amoroso rolls and marinated rib eye are imported from Philadelphia. Their one non-traditional, California-esque twist is that one of your cheese options is nacho jalapeno. I loved it!

The Shack in Santa Monica

2. The Shack (2518 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica) Only the Santa Monica location, which is owned by a Philadelphian, of this venerable LA burger joint serves cheesesteaks. The meat is perfectly seasoned and served on Amoroso rolls. They are really, really good.

Philly West Bar & Grill

3. Philly West Bar & Grill (1870 Westwood Blvd in Westwood) These are Allentown-style cheesesteaks and are made with a bit of marinara sauce. The bread is incredibly delicious. Instead of Amoroso rolls shipped frozen from Philadelphia, they use fresh baked French rolls from a local bakery. A great place to watch Phillies or Eagles games.

Philly's Best

4. Philly’s Best (17200 Ventura Blvd. in Encino, 1421 W. Olive St. in Burbank and other locations) This successful chain knows what they’re doing. They use Amoroso rolls from Philly and are one of the few places that offer Cheese Whiz. They also have Philadelphia-style Hoagies, Wise potato chips and Tastykakes.

Soda Pop's

5. Soda Pop’s (349 N. La Cienega in Mid-City) The owner is from Boston and refers to his cheesesteaks as “Steak Bombs,” but don’t hold that against him. These are really good cheesesteaks served with housemade potato chips. Plus 100 different specialty sodas like Blueberry Birch Beer and Pumpkin Pie Soda.

Molecular Gastronomy Cheesesteak at The Bazaar

Special Mention: Philly Cheesesteak at The Bazaar (465 La Cienega, Mid-City) It wouldn’t be fair to compare this molecular gastronomy version with the others, but it should be noted that this specialty of Jose Andres is insanely good. Crispy air-filled bread filled with aged Cheddar sauce and topped with Kobe beef.

I love Tastykakes!

Tastykakes! Several cheesesteak places sell Tastykakes, delicious snack cakes which are incredibly popular in Philadelphia. Philly’s Best has the largest variety. My favorites are Butterscotch Krimpets, Peanut Butter Kandy Kakes and Koffee Kake Cupcakes.

I will be discussing cheesesteaks on KABC Talk Radio 790 this Sunday night at 8:00 on Dining with Dills. If you enjoy Consuming LA, please subscribe, like me on Facebook and/or follow me on twitter at the top right of this page. And please forward to your friends!

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Filed under Burbank, Downtown, Encino, Mid-City, Santa Monica, Westwood

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April 27, 2012 · 11:00 am

An Experience Of A Lifetime

The French Laundry had been at the top of my bucket list for many years. So when I recently had the opportunity to dine there with my twin daughters, I jumped on it. Owned by Chef Thomas Keller for the past 18 years, the restaurant is located in Yountville in Napa County, California and is housed in a century-old stone building that was once a French steam laundry. For both lunch and dinner, The French Laundry offers only a fixed price tasting menu (with a vegetarian option), which changes daily. The restaurant and Keller have won basically every major culinary award in the country so, needless to say, reservations are incredibly difficult to obtain.

Having heard about The French Laundry for so many years, I wondered whether it would ultimately disappoint. But it more than lived up to the hype. It was magical and extraordinary; the best dining experience I have ever had in this country and one of the two best I’ve had ever had in the world. Our lunch lasted four and a half hours and consisted of 14 small courses, each a beautiful work of art and a complex, creative and incredibly delicious dish. Everything was simply the best. The “Foie Gras Au Torchon” was served with a trio of exotic salts including a 40 million year old pink Jurassic salt from a copper mine in Montana. The beef course featured a special cut and blend of Wagyu and Black Angus sold only to The French Laundry. One of the butter options for our bread had been flown in from a farm in Vermont where it was made specially for the restaurant. The meal was full of surprises not listed on the menu such an incredible risotto, upon which our waiter shaved an insane amount of black truffles.

The service was equally excellent; the best I have ever experienced and not pretentious or overly formal. Each course was served with plate covers that were removed simultaneously for the whole table, followed by a presentation by the table captain of such course in wonderful detail. After our lunch, we were treated to a tour of the restaurant’s kitchen and took a walk through The French Laundry’s beautiful garden, where many of the restaurant’s vegetables and herbs are grown.

Such greatness does not come cheap. Both lunch and dinner at The French Laundry cost $270 per person including tip, but excluding tax, wine, supplements like foie gras and caviar, and additional tip (which you no doubt will want to leave for such incredible service). Yes, it’s one expensive meal, but you really shouldn’t think of it as just a meal. What you’re paying for is an experience of a lifetime. The one drawback of our lunch: by exposing my daughters to The French Laundry at such a young age, I think I have ruined them for all other fine dining experiences. Nothing can compare.

The French Laundry is located at 6640 Washington St., Yountville, California. If you enjoy Consuming LA, please subscribe, like me on Facebook and/or follow me on Twitter at the top right of this page. And please forward to your friends!

Amuse Bouche: Greyere Cheese Puffs

Scottish Salmon Tartar with Red Onion Creme Fraiche and Chive Chip in a Black Sesame Tuile Cone

“Oysters and Pearls” (“Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and White Sturgeon Cavier)

“Bouchon Roll” (Pan au Lait) with unsalted butter from Petaluma and salted butter from Vermont

White Truffle-Infused Egg Custard in Egg Shell with Veal Reduction, Chopped Black Truffles and Chive Potato Chip

Trio of gourmet salts to accompany brioche and Moulard Duck “Foie Gras Au Torchon” with Gros Michel Banana, Sicilian Pistachios, Oxalis, Black Truffle and Bourbon Maple Syrup (pictured on top)

Salde of Roasted Hawaiian Hearts of Palm with Celery Branch, Piedmont Hazelnuts and Cranberry Relish

Nantucket Bay Scallops with Medjool Dates, Nantes Carrots, Crosnes, Cilantro Shoots and Madras Curry

Sauteed Filet of Black Bass with Petite Onions, Piquillo Peppers, Sunchokes Arugula and Meyer Lemon

“Caesar Salad” with Sweet Butter-Poached Maine Lobster, Caramelized Romaine Lettuce, Garlic “Pain Perdu,” Parmesan Crisp and “Bottarga di Muggine”

Risotto with Shaved Black Truffles

Devil’s Gulch Ranch Rabbit Sirloin with Hobb’s Bacon, Butternut Squash, Watercress, Black Truffle and Mission Fig Jus

Snake River Farms “Calotte de Boeuf Grillee” with “Ris de Veau,” King Trumpet Mushroom, Baby Artichoke and Belgian Endive

“Tomme Corse” (cheese) with San Marzano Tomato Compote, Young Fennel and Nicoise Olives

Sour Cherry Sorbet with Coconut “Petit Beurre” and Vanilla “Soda”

Alpaco “Mousse au Chocolat” with Spice Pudding, “Panna Cotta,” Fuyu Persimmon and Marcona Almond “Glacee”

“Pommes Anna” with Funnel Cake, “Pruneaux d’Agen,” Rum “Anglaise” and Salted Caramel Ice Cream

Housemade Truffles: Salted Caramel, Peanut Butter & Jelly, Meyer Lemon, Ginger, Hazelnut and Pumpkin Pie

A gift of Shortbread Cookies to take home

The dining room: understated elegance

I got a tour of the kitchen!

insert

The French Laundry Garden

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Filed under Outside Los Angeles

Tagged as Best Restaurant in the United States, Best Restaurant in the World, Best Restaurant Napa, Best Restaurant US, Best Restaurants in the United States, Best Restaurants in the US, Chef Thomas Keller, French Laundry, French Laundry California, French Laundry Chef, French Laundry Cost, French Laundry Cost of Meal, French Laundry Cost With Wine Pairing, French Laundry Dinner Prices, French Laundry Lunch Prices, French Laundry Menu, French Laundry Napa, French Laundry Price of Meal, French Laundry Price Per Person, French Laundry Prices, French Laundry Prices 2013, French Laundry Reservations, French Laundry Review, French Laundry Yountville, Oysters and Pearls, Prices French Laundry, The French Laundry, Thomas Keller, Yountville

April 20, 2012 · 11:00 am

Going Postal

Great restaurants have not been what comes to mind when thinking of Manhattan Beach, or anywhere in the South Bay for that matter. A beautiful beach, bike-riding, blondes and bars are usually what I associate with this coastal community. But an unexpected and amazing restaurant opened recently and it’s now the first thing I think about when Manhattan Beach is mentioned. MB Post is the first truly spectacular restaurant to open in the South Bay. The restaurant’s name was inspired by the postal office that originally occupied its space and in homage to such origin, upon being seated, you are presented with an envelope with your name on it which contains your menu folded like a letter. As a self-described “Social House,” MB Post has a fun and vivacious atmosphere. Many of the tables are communal and a lively bar serves up delicious original cocktails.

Like BÃ¤co Mercat, which I reviewed a few months ago, the creative and rustic cuisine prepared by genius chef David LeFevre (formerly of the Water Grill) defies classification. With Asian, Moroccan, Mexican and Italian-inspired dishes, the restaurant’s seasonal menu reads like an exotic trip around the world. The dishes are all small plates and are meant for sharing. Everything I have had at MB Post has been excellent, but the one menu item that is an absolute must-have is the Bacon Cheddar Buttermilk Biscuits with Maple Butter. These biscuits are beyond incredible and the maple butter is insane! Other dishes I love are the Vietnamese Caramel Pork Jowl (pictured above), the Spring Pea Rissotto, the Diver Scallops with Shrimp-Ginger Dumplings and Katsuo Dashi Broth and the Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Emmental, Hazelnuts and Sage. If you read this blog regularly, you know how much I love peanut butter, so it’s no surprise that I highly recommend for dessert the “Elvis,” a wonderful mess of chocolate pudding, peanut butter mousse and bacon brittle.

MB Post is located at 1142 Manhattan Ave. in Manhattan Beach. If you don’t live near Manhattan Beach and think it would be too much of a schlep to drive down there for dinner, trust me, it is well worth it.

Yummy Cocktails!

Bacon Cheddar Buttermilk Biscuit served with Maple Butter

Spring Pea Risotto

Diver Scallops with Shrimp-Ginger Dumplings and Katsuo Dashi Broth

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Emmental, Hazelnuts and Sage

The "Elvis" (chocolate pudding, peanut butter mousse and bacon brittle)

Spiced Apple Hand Pies with Salted Caramel Sauce

Manhattan Beach finally has a truly great restaurant!

If you enjoy Consuming LA, please subscribe, like me on Facebook and/or follow me on twitter at the top right of this page. And please forward to your friends!

Killer Views, Disappointing Chews

Magnificent Mediterranean

Cheesesteak Challenge

An Experience Of A Lifetime

Going Postal

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