The Church Key is a restaurant full of surprises. While there’s a menu with diverse offerings from Potato Pierogies to Jidori Chicken “Tikka Masala,” a good part of your meal is likely to come from “dim sum” carts that cruise around the restaurant. Each cart has a variety of whimsical and unexpected small plate offerings such as Baja fish tacos, bahn mi sandwiches, falafel balls and even sushi. If you’re lucky, one of the carts will have Church Key’s “Cheetos,” which are fried chicharron-style pig ears dusted with cheese powder and seved with whipped avocado mousse. They’re amazingly good.
At some point in your meal, a woman will appear dresssed as a 1960’s airline stewardess with a Pan Am beverage cart. Don’t worry; she works there. She’ll offer you the chance to purchase “Otter Pop”-type cocktails, which she’ll prepare for you on the spot with liquid nitrogen. I suggest you accept.
But the biggest surprise at Church Key is despite all the theatrics and high-concept fun, the food is for the most part really good. The Tapioca Crusted Tai Snapper with Broccoli Rabe, Sushi Rice Cake and White Soy Vinaigrette is phenomenal. I also recommend the Cured Beef Bresaola with Plum Mostarda, House Pickles and Grilled Sourdough. The Salt and Vinegar Popcorn is like crack and free of charge. For dessert, go for the Brioche Donuts with Brown Butter Glaze and Cinnamon Caramel. You deserve it.
The Church Key is located at 8730 Sunset Blvd in West Hollywood.