best restaurants dtla - Consuming LA

Alma started as an acclaimed pop-up restaurant in Venice, but laid down roots last year next to a taxi dance hall downtown on South Broadway. It has a cool minimalistic and modern interior with an open kitchen where a talented young chef named Ari Taymor hones his craft. Taymor’s modern American cuisine is the food equivalent of a Terrence Malick film or an opera by Phillip Glass; in other words, it’s not for everyone. But for foodies and other bon vivants (myself included), dinner at Alma can be a very special experience.

The menu, which is printed in lower case letters on pages of a yellow legal pad, changes daily and features small plates composed of seasonal, market-driven ingredients, many of which are sourced from an exclusive arrangement with a garden/micro-farm in Venice. The flavors are complex and nuanced. The combinations are, for the most part, interesting and inspired. As you would expect, there are foams and droplets of sauce.

My favorite dish is the Chicken Liver Toast & Date Jam, a perfect amalgam of sweet and savory, creamy and crunchy. I’m also a big fan of Alma’s Seaweed & Tofu Beignets with Yuzu Kosho and Lime, as well as their unusual “onion salad” of Spring Alliums, Kumquats, Goat’s Milk, Turnips and Coffee Granola. For dessert, I recommend the Warm Rye Bread Pudding with Red Fruits, Almond Brittle and Frozen Yogurt. You can enjoy it all with an organic wine, craft beer or homemade soda.

Alma is located at 952 S. Broadway, Los Angeles (Downtown). UPDATE: ALMA IS NOW CLOSED. VERY SAD.

Spring Alliums, Kumquat, Goat Milk, Turnip, Coffee Granola

Uni Toast, Burrata and Caviar

Seaweed & Tofu Beignet, Yuzu Kosho and Lime

Dungeness Crab, Summer Squash, Almond Milk, Quinoa and Basil

Seared Yellowtail Jack, Celery and Lentils

Chicken Liver Toast and Date Jam

Grilled Scallops, Smoked Pork, Corn, Miso and Apricot

New York Steak, Morel, Snails, Asparagus and Smoked Garlic Bearnaise

Jidori Chicken, Carrot, Lemongrass and Basil

Charred Eggplant with Trumpet Mushrooms, Broccoli, Bulgur and Pine Nuts

Sweetbreads, Mole, Beet and Cherry

Buttermilk Cake, Apricot and Brown Butter Ice Cream

Chocolate, Popcorn and Sorrel

Warm Rye Bread Pudding with Red Fruits, Almond Brittle and Frozen Yogurt

Modern, cutting-edge French cuisine next door to a taxi dance hall

Modern, cutting-edge cuisine next door to a taxi dance hall

Eastside hipsters who live Downtown and in Silverlake are different from Westside hipsters in Venice, and not just in terms of hat styles and facial hair. So when I heard that Casey Lane, venerated chef of The Tasting Kitchen on Abbot Kinney, was opening The Parish downtown, I wasn’t sure if Lane’s new venture would be able to replicate the success of his Venice eatery. So far, things look promising.

Like The Tasting Kitchen, The Parish has an uber-cool bar with an array of tasty cocktails, and is a destination for many solely to imbibe. And just as The Tasting Kitchen epitomizes the casual elegance of the Westside, The Parish has nailed the urban, retro-cool and slightly dangerous vibe of Downtown. I would describe its decor as “vintage hipster chic” and speakeasy-esque.

The cuisine at The Parish is elevated British gastropub fare. On the whole it’s very good, but not yet of the level of The Tasting Kitchen. My favorite dish is the Meat Pie with Sausage, Cheddar and Mashed Potatoes. It’s served in a delicious pot-shaped crust. I also love the Sauteed Corn with Basil, Chili, Chickpeas, Dill Aioli & Pecorino, as well as the Porchetta for Two with Cider Braised Cabbage & Salt Roasted Potatoes. But several of the other things I’ve had there are just OK and the desserts are disappointing. Nevertheless, for a fun evening, I recommend checking this place out. Don’t forget your fedora.

The Parish is located at 840 S. Spring St., Los Angeles (Downtown). If you enjoy Consuming LA, please subscribe, like me on facebook and/or follow me on twitter at the top right of this page. And please forward to your friends!