Consuming LA

December 11, 2014 · 9:08 am

Saints Be Praised

Until recently, the popularity of bone marrow in modern high end cuisine has confounded me. I know it’s an ingredient adored by celebrated chefs and sophisticated diners, but I’m not a fan of its usually gelatinous texture. Also it has been hard for me to get past the fact that restaurants are charging good money for something my poor Eastern European ancestors scraped and sucked out of bones because they couldn’t afford any of the better parts of the cow.

My feelings on bone marrow, however, have changed recently due to some amazing Bone Marrow Beignets that I ate at an incredible new LA restaurant called Saint Martha, where they were served with Steak and Oyster Tartare, along with a Champagne Sabayon that is playfully presented to look like a fried egg. Nick Erven, the Ã¼ber talented chef at Saint Martha, excels at reinterpreting and refining low brow and comfort foods, which also include an excellent brisket and an insanely good fried chicken served with steelcut oats, carrots, pickled dates and Moorish spices. Even Saint Martha’s standout dessert is an upscale version of a classic PB&J, but assembled with peanut butter ganache, roasted grape ice cream and griddled pound cake.

In keeping with the high/low theme, this intimate and cutting-edge restaurant, which is named after the patron saint of cooks and servants, is ensconced in a lackluster Koreatown strip mall. Despite the K-Town location, Saint Martha would be best described as New American and features an extensive and adventurous wine list. It has quickly become one of my favorite new spots in the city.

Saint Martha is located at 740 S. Western Ave, Los Angeles (in Koreatown). UPDATE: SAINT MARTHA IS CLOSED. WHAT A TRAGEDY. HOPEFULLY IT IS JUST TEMPORARY.

Octopus with Koshihikari Rice, Sauce Nero, Lardo and Espelette

Steak and Oyster Tartare with Champagne Sabayon and Bone Marrow Beignets

Crab “Okonomiyaki”

Chicken Liver Mousse with Mushroom, Hazelnut Praline, Pickled Blueberries and Toast

Crispy Chicken Thigh with Steelcut Oats, Carrots, Pickled Dates and Moorish Spices

Pecan Smoked Brisket with Chili-Hoisin, Lettuce and Shaved Root Vegetables

Peanut Butter Ganache, Roasted Grape Ice Cream, Griddled Pound Cake and Chocolate Feuilletine

One of my favorite new places in the city

Saint Martha

The Pies Have It

People Magazine just named Australian actor and superhero portrayer Chris Hemsworth “Sexiest Man Alive,” but I’m more interested in another sexy Australian import. The hot and seductive meat pies at Aussie Pie Kitchen in Santa Monica are my latest obsession. Each has a buttery and flaky crust that melts in your mouth and encases a juicy and perfectly seasoned filling. My favorites are the Chicken + Tarragon, the Lamb + Rosemary, the Steak + Shiraz, and the unique “Surfer’s Pie” with Green Curry Chicken and Coconut Milk.

For the full experience, I recommend ordering a “Tiger Stack.” The pie of your choice will be perched on a pile of Garlic Mashed Yukon Gold Potatoes and topped with a scoop of bacon-laced Mushy Minty Peas and a ladleful of Creamy Thyme Gravy. This decadent concoction is best enjoyed with a sweet and spicy Bundaberg Ginger Beer and followed by one of Aussie Pie Kitchen’s high-end coffee drinks. Their “Flat White,” an Australian specialty which is similar to a Latte, but stronger, is not only delicious but will keep you awake after carbo-loading with the pies and mashed potatoes.

Aussie Pie Kitchen is located at 2510 Main Street in Santa Monica.

G’Day Meat Pies!

Ground Beef and Shiraz Pie

Sufferin’ Succotash!

Stacking options

Lamb and Rosemary Pie

Brekkie Roll

White Flat

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Filed under Santa Monica

Tagged as aussie pie kitchen, aussie pie kitchen los angeles, aussie pie kitchen santa monica, aussie pie shop, aussie pies, australian meat pie, australian meat pies los angeles, australian meat pies santa monica, tiger stack

November 4, 2014 · 12:08 pm

Key Party

The Church Key is a restaurant full of surprises. While there’s a menu with diverse offerings from Potato Pierogies to Jidori Chicken “Tikka Masala,” a good part of your meal is likely to come from “dim sum” carts that cruise around the restaurant. Each cart has a variety of whimsical and unexpected small plate offerings such as Baja fish tacos, bahn mi sandwiches, falafel balls and even sushi. If you’re lucky, one of the carts will have Church Key’s “Cheetos,” which are fried chicharron-style pig ears dusted with cheese powder and seved with whipped avocado mousse. They’re amazingly good.

At some point in your meal, a woman will appear dresssed as a 1960’s airline stewardess with a Pan Am beverage cart. Don’t worry; she works there. She’ll offer you the chance to purchase “Otter Pop”-type cocktails, which she’ll prepare for you on the spot with liquid nitrogen. I suggest you accept.

But the biggest surprise at Church Key is despite all the theatrics and high-concept fun, the food is for the most part really good. The Tapioca Crusted Tai Snapper with Broccoli Rabe, Sushi Rice Cake and White Soy Vinaigrette is phenomenal. I also recommend the Cured Beef Bresaola with Plum Mostarda, House Pickles and Grilled Sourdough. The Salt and Vinegar Popcorn is like crack and free of charge. For dessert, go for the Brioche Donuts with Brown Butter Glaze and Cinnamon Caramel. You deserve it.

The Church Key is located at 8730 Sunset Blvd in West Hollywood.

Salt and Vinegar Popcorn

Pig Ear Cheetos

Smoked Pork Ribs

Baja Fish Tacos

Bacon and Cheese Roll

BBQ Pork Bun

Osoky’s Potato Pierogies with Peach Butter, Aged Gouda, Creme Fraiche and Chives

Heirloom Tomato, Melon and Peach Salad with Sheeps Milk Gouda, Pickled Peach Vinaigrette and Watercress

Cured Beef Bresaola with Plum Mostarda, House Pickles and Grilled Sourdough

Tapioca Crusted Tai Snapper with Broccoli Rabe, Sushi Rice Cake and White Soy Vinaigrette

Jidori Chicken “Tikka Masala” with Dehydrated Mango, Cilantro Raita and Basmati Rice

Brioche Donuts with Brown Butter Glaze and Cinnamon Caramel

Banana Toffee Pudding with Banana Cake, Toffee Caramel and Banana Creme BrÃ»lée Foam

The Cocktails have names like “Nice Melons,” “Purple Finger Pirate” and “The Family Jewels”

The dim sum carts are full of surprises.

Anyone for Liquid Nitrogen “Otter Pops” from a Pan Am beverage cart?

A handy card to let the dim sum cart pushers know you’re done

There’s a party going on right here.

3 Comments

Filed under West Hollywood

Tagged as Best Restaurants West Hollywood, church key los angeles, church key menu, church key west hollywood, church key west hollywood menu, The Church Key, west hollywood dim sum

September 4, 2014 · 11:43 am

This is How I Roll

I have been completely and unabashedly obsessed with Chef Kazunori Nozawa’s blue crab handroll (which I will hereafter refer to as “the Precious”) since I first discovered it 20 years ago at the legendary Sushi Nozawa in Studio City. Made with crispy melt-in-your-mouth seaweed, warm rice, and a generous dollop of super fresh blue crab mixed with tasty housemade mayonnaise, the Precious was the fireworks finale that always ended the mind-blowing omakase meals that Nozawa was famous for.

While Chef Nozawa retired a couple years ago and closed his famous restaurant, the Precious miraculously lived on at a new chain of unconventional sushi bars called Sugarfish, which is owned by Nozawa and his son. But the journey of the Precious does not end there. Nozawa and son have now debuted KazuNori, a temple of sorts devoted almost exclusively to Nozawa’s classic hand rolls.

Located in one of the most hipstery parts of Downtown, KazuNori is a cozy and casual joint; a bustling U-shaped 24-seat bar, within which sushi masters prepare Nozawa’s rolled delights for instant and euphoric consumption. I recommend ordering a combo of three, four or five hand rolls. The scallop, toro, yellowtail and lobster ones are spectacular, but of course nothing beats the Precious.

KazuNori is located at 421 S Main St, Los Angeles (Downtown).

The Halibut Sashimi

The Toro Hand Roll

The Downtown Locale

The Instructions

The Bar

The Making and Consuming of the Hand Rolls

1 Comment

Filed under Downtown

Tagged as Hand Roll Bar DTLA, Hand Roll Place Downtown LA, Kazu Nori, Kazu Nori Menu, Kazu Nori Sushi Bar, Kazunori, kazunori los angeles, kazunori menu, kazunori sushi, Nozawa Downtown, Nozawa DTLA, Sugarfish Downtown LA, Sugarfish DTLA

August 29, 2014 · 12:07 am

Labor Day Weekend for Foodies

Who doesn’t love a food festival? If you’re in LA this Labor Day Weekend, there’s a great one happening on the Paramount Pictures lot. It’s put on by The Los Angeles Times and features over 125 of LA’s top restaurants spread out over five different events. Some of my favorite places participating include The Gorbals, Hinoki and the Bird, Jitlada, Fishing with Dynamite, Loteria Grill, Chichén ItzÃ¡, Stella Barra Pizzeria and Plan Check Kitchen + Bar. Wine, Beer and Spirits will be plentiful.

You can get more information and buy tickets here.

Maple Bacon Cinnamon Roll baked by LA Times Test Kitchen chef Noelle Carter will be featured at the Sunday brunch event.

Mexican French Toast from Loteria Grill chef Jimmy Shaw

Mexican Sweet Roll “Concha” French Toast from Loteria Grill chef Jimmy Shaw will also be served at the Sunday brunch.

Smokey Fried Chicken from Plan Check Kitchen + Bar

Saints Be Praised

The Pies Have It

Key Party

This is How I Roll

Labor Day Weekend for Foodies

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