Category Archives: Mid-City

March 26, 2014 · 10:22 am

Not Your Routine Poutine

Canada is the home of gold medal winning female bobsledders, an incorrigible rapscallion/pop star known as “J-Biebs,” and a corpulent crack-smoking mayor that bears a striking resemblance to the late great Chris Farley. But foodwise, the greatest achievement of our neighbor to the north is poutine.

For the uninitiated, poutine is Canadian fast food that originated in Quebec. It’s fries with a brown gravy-like sauce and cheese curds. A good plate of poutine is salty and unctuous, and perfect for late night binging, noshing at a hockey game, and consuming while listening to the song stylings of French-Canadian chanteuse Celine Dion.

LA chefs, especially those at local gastropubs, have been obsessed lately with poutine and have lovingly put their own spin the dish. Below are some of my favorite non-traditional poutines served around town, with a couple of more classic ones thrown in for good measure.

Chicken Tikka Poutine

1. Chicken Tikka Poutine from Badmaash (108 W. 2nd Street in Downtown Los Angeles).

Bahn Mi Poutine

2. Bahn Mi Poutine from The Gorbals (501 So. Spring St. in Downtown Los Angeles)

Galbi Poutine with Pickled Kimchi Onions

3. Galbi Poutine with Pickled Kimchi Onions from Seoul Sausage (11313 Mississippi Ave, Los Angeles in West LA)

Pastrami Gravy Fries (with Beef Tallow Fries, Pastrami Bits Pastrami Gravy, Melted Swiss Cheese and Chopped Pickles)

4. Pastrami Gravy Fries (with Beef Tallow Fries, Pastrami Bits Pastrami Gravy, Melted Swiss Cheese and Chopped Pickles) from Plan Check Kitchen + Bar (1800 Sawtelle Blvd., Los Angeles in West LA and 352 N. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles in Mid-City)

Truffled Poutine Burger

5. Truffled Poutine Burger from Umami Burger (Locations in Santa Monica, Studio City, Los Feliz, Mid-City, Hermosa Beach, Downtown, Burbank, Hollywood, Thousand Oaks and Pasadena)

Gravy Fried with Roast Brisket and Cheddar

Gravy Fries with Roast Brisket and Cheddar

6. Gravy Fries with Roast Brisket and Cheddar from The Bowery (6268 W Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles in Hollywood)

Poutine with Ground Beef and Sauteed Onions, Peppers & Mushrooms

7. Build your own Poutine (this one has Ground Beef and Sauteed Onions, Peppers and Mushrooms) at Jay’s Bar (4321 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles in Silverlake)

Smoked Meats Poutine with Curds and Gravy

8. Smoked Meats Poutine with Curds and Gravy from Little Fork (1600 Wilcox Ave., Los Angeles in Hollywood)

Poutine, Oxtail Gravy, Cheddar

9. Poutine, Oxtail Gravy, Cheddar from Animal (435 N. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles in Mid-City)

Poutine ÃŽle-du-Prince-Ã‰douard with Mussels au Gratin

10. Poutine ÃŽle-du-Prince-Ã‰douard with Mussels au Gratin from Soleil Westwood and P’tit Soleil (1386 Westwood Blvd, Los Angeles in Westwood)

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Filed under Burbank, Downtown, Hermosa Beach, Hollywood, Los Feliz, Mid-City, Pasadena, Santa Monica, Silver Lake, Studio City, Thousand Oaks, West LA, Westwood

Tagged as animal poutine, Bahn Mi Poutine, best poutine los angeles, bowery los angeles, canadian food los angeles, celine dion, chicken tikka poutine, galbi poutine, jay's bar, jay's bar menu, justin bieber, p'tit soleil, petite soleil, poutine, poutine in los angeles, poutine los angeles, rob ford, seoul sausage, seoul sausage menu, smoked meats poutine, the bowery los angeles, the bowery menu, the bowery restaurant, westward soleil menu, westwood soleil

March 12, 2014 · 12:27 pm

Le Mediocre

There has been a lot of press lately about the 3% Obamacare surcharge added to all patrons’ checks at LA’s hot new French restaurant, Republique. The surcharge is intended to pay for health care insurance for restaurant employees, and for those diners who find the surcharge objectionable, the restaurant recommends deducting it from the gratuity. Whether this is a well meaning attempt to provide better benefits to restaurant employees, a slam on Obamacare, or a brilliant publicity stunt, personally, I don’t like it. What’s next? A surcharge for electricity or for paper towels in the bathroom? Republique should do what all other restaurants do; factor its total overhead into its food prices.

But the problem with Republique increasing food prices to pay for healthcare insurance is that the food there is overpriced to begin with. Sure, the place (it’s in the old Campanile space) is hip and fun and they offer a mezcal-based cocktail called “Speaking in Tongues.” But to me it’s all about the food, and the food at Republique, just like the Lakers this season, is sadly mediocre; merely good and unfortunately not great. Dining there recently left me thinking of that Peggy Lee song “Is That All There Is?” — the answer to which in this case is “yes and you get to pay an additional 3% for it.”

Republique is located at 624 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles (Mid-City).

Grass-Fed Beef Tartare with Tarragon Aioli, Pickled Red Onion and Potato Chips

“Eggs on Toast” with Santa Barbara Uni and Soft-scrambled Eggs

Tart a L’Alsacienne with
Stinging Nettles, Asparagus, Leeks and Drake Family Farms Goat Cheese

Hand-Cut Fettuccine with Maine Lobster Bolognese

Maine Bouchot Mussels with French Fries, White Wine and Garlic

Mediterranean Branzino with Thai Curry, Carrot Coconut and Peanuts

Banana Cream Pie with Hot Chocolate and Peanut Buttter

Salted Caramel Chocolate Cake with Milk Eau de Vie

In the old Campanile space on La Brea

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Filed under Mid-City

Tagged as French Restaurants Los Angeles, république los angeles, république los angeles menu, république menu, république restaurant, république restaurant menu, république review, republic los angeles, republic los angeles menu, republic los angles, republic restaurant, republique

November 22, 2013 · 3:29 pm

Thanksgiving Por Favor

I’m sure it’s a surprise to no one that food-centric Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday. While I love all the traditional foods like roast turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie, I also like to shake it up a bit and eat things that are twists on holiday classics. I’ve written before about places to buy candied yam ice cream and turkey gravy cupcakes, and this year I recommend spicing up your Turkey Day dinner with special Thanksgiving-inspired Mexican side dishes from Loteria Grill.

Loteria Grill is one of my favorite Mexican restaurants in the city. What started as just a stall in the Original Farmers Market on Fairfax, has grown into a chain of five restaurants that serve some of the tastiest gourmet Mexican grub this side of the border. I’m prettty much addicted to their spicy salsa, and their Chicharron de Queso (crispy griddled cheese which looks like a large party hat) is incredible!

This year, Loteria’s owner and executive chef Jimmy Shaw has put together a menu of special Thanksgiving side dishes and desserts for take-out to serve at your holiday dinner. These are not your grandmother’s Thanksgiving dishes (unless perhaps you call your grandmother “abuela”), but they do include many of the same ingredients you find in the holiday classics. My favorites are the Mashed Roasted Sweet Potatos al Chipotle served in hollowed out orange rinds, the Jalapeno Corn Bread and the Almond and Apple Tart with Goat’s Milk Cajeta. Happy Thanksgiving, amigos!

Loteria Grill is located in Hollywood, Santa Monica, Studio City, Westlake Village and the Original Farmers Market on Fairfax.

Mashed Roasted Sweet Potatoes al Chipotle

Jalapeno Cornbread

Chiles Rellenos de Requeson, Manzana y Nuez

Calabacitas Rellenas

Esquites (Toasted Corn Off the Cob)

Pastel del Elote con Rajas de Chile Poblano a la Crema

Rajas con Crema, Elote y Queso

Roasted Fingerling Potatoes with Chile Poblano

Almond and Apple Tart with Goat’s Milk Cajeta

Pumpkin Mini Cake with Piloncillo Sauce and Ice Cream

Animal Magnetism

My recommendation list for food lovers visiting our fair city changes all the time, but almost always includes Animal. Hidden among the Jewish bakeries and hip hop clothing stores of Fairfax Avenue, Animal is the jewel of the LA foodie scene. It’s a gastronomic temple of carnivorous delights; an exotic pageant of nose-to-tail creative culinary brilliance; an adventure.

It’s helmed by genius chef duo Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, who have two other amazing eateries in LA — Son of a Gun and Trois Mec. The interior is small, dimly lit and packed every night with a boisterous mix of hipsters, celebrities, Hollywood “suits” and hardcore foodies. Almost everything on Animal’s ever-changing menu of small plates is phenomenal. Prior to the California foie gras ban, my favorite dish was the sweet and savory Foie Gras on a Biscuit with Maple Sausage Gravy. I still mourn its premature demise.

Other longtime favorites include the deliciously unctuous Poutine with Oxtail Gravy and Cheddar, the crispy and light Kampachi Tostada and Animal’s version of chip ‘n dip: Spicy Beef Tendon Chip with Charred Onion Pho Dip. Animal’s perfectly seasoned and seared Iberico Pork Secreto is truly spectacular and one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. For dessert, the Tres Leches Cake with Dulce de Leche and the Bacon Chocolate Crunch Bar with Salt & Pepper Ice Cream are not to be missed.

Animal is located at 435 N. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles (Mid-City).

Veal Tongue, West Indian Gherkin, Steelhead Roe, Black Mustard

Kampachi Tostada, Herbs, Fish Sauce Vinaigrette, Peanut

Spicy Beef Tendon Chip with Charred Onion Pho Dip

Santa Barbara Uni, Heirloom Cucumbers, Za’atar, Fried Cheese, HB Egg

Duck Breast, Charred Cabbage, Liptauer, Mustard

Roasted Peaches, Hazelnut, Buttermilk, Currants, Prosciutto di Parma

Shrimp & Rabbit Sausage Spring Roll, Minutina, Green Curry

Charred Octopus, Black Sriracha, Finger Lime, Gooseberry

Mexican Street Corn, Epazote, Serrano, Parmesan

Sweetbread, Corn, Fennel, Crema, Raymundo’s Tomatillo Salsa

Poutine, Oxtail Gravy, Cheddar

Santa Barbara Rock Crab, Shallots, Verjus, Avgolemono, Sourdough

16oz. Iberico Pork Secreto, Marinated Onion, Peruvian Mint, Yuca

RIP. Foie Gras, Biscuit, Maple Sausage Gravy

Tres Leches Cake with Dulce de Leche

Bacon Chocolate Crunch Bar with S&P Ice Cream

Bacon Chocolate Crunch Bar with Salt & Pepper Ice Cream

Blueberry, Frozen Brown Sugar Crumble, Yogurt, Bay Leaf Ice Cream

Clandestinely located among the Jewish delis and hip hop shops on Fairfax

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Filed under Fairfax, Mid-City

Tagged as Animal, Animal Fairfax, Animal Los Angeles, Animal Menu, Animal Restaurant, Animal Restaurant Los Angeles, animal restaurant review, Animal Review, Bacon Chocolate Crunch Bar, Jon Shook, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, Pork Secreto, Pork Secreto Los Angels, vinnie dotolo, Vinny Dotolo

July 26, 2013 · 12:55 am

Jewish Soul Food — A Guide for Goyim

Oy Gevalt! We’ve heard a lot lately about how Jewish delicatessens are a dying breed in New York. But here in LA, delis are holding their ground, and perhaps even thriving. Yes, iconic deli Junior’s in Westwood closed at the beginning of the year, but it was immediately replaced by Lenny’s Deli, which doesn’t seem that different.

While adventurous Angelenos love checking out restaurants that serve exotic cuisines they are not familiar with like Bolivian, Laotian and Napalese, many don’t realize that beyond the sandwiches and bowls of matzo ball soup, Jewish delis offer delectable Eastern European specialties unfamiliar to a lot of foodies, especially non-Jews. Below are some of my favorites.

As for the best places to consume these dishes, there are many divergent views in the LA Jewish community, which reminds me of the saying “With two Jews, you get three opinions.” Brent’s (in Northridge and Westlake Village) is my favorite Jewish deli in the city and has the best food overall. I also love Canter’s on Fairfax, especially because of its excellent bakery, its cool retro look and the fact that it’s open 24 hours for late night noshing and kibitzing. Langer’s (Downtown) ranks next on my list because of its amazing pastrami. My other favorites are Billy’s Deli (in Glendale and Torrance), Nate ‘n Al (in Beverly Hills) and Greenblatt’s (in West Hollywood). UPDATE: Billy’s Deli is closed. What a shonda (shame)!

Sweet and Sour Cabbage Soup from Brent’s Deli

1. Sweet and Sour Cabbage Soup Every fresser and his brother orders Matzo Ball Soup at a deli, but I prefer this hearty soup instead. The best versions contain succulent pieces of braised short rib called "flanken."

Kasha Varnishkes from Langer’s Delicatessen-Restaurant

2. Kasha Varnishkes Like two inseparable Jewish friends from the old country, this dish is a classic combination of Kasha, a cereal usually made of buckwheat, and buttery bowtie pasta.

Cheese Blintzes from Brent’s Deli

3. Blintzes These are thin crepes wrapped around a filling, which is usually sweetened ricotta or farmer’s cheese, but can also be potato, blueberry or cherry. They’re topped with powdered sugar and served with sour cream and jam.

Bubbe made a Kishka! But this one is from Brent’s Deli.

4. Kishka aka Stuffed Derma This was made with cow intestines back in the day, but now it has a sausage casing and is stuffed with a filling of flour, carrots, onions, celery and paprika. It tastes like stuffing and is usually served with gravy.

What am I? Chopped Liver? Yes, from Canter’s Deli.

5. Chopped Liver Schmear some on a slice of freshly baked rye bread and place a piece of raw onion on top and you’re in business. I also like to eat my chopped liver with hot and sweet mustard.

Fried Kreplach with Gravy from Brent’s Deli

6. Fried Kreplach A kreplach is a dense doughy dumpling filled with ground meat. It’s often served in a bowl of chicken soup instead of a matzo ball. Kreplachs are amazing fried up and topped with sauteed onions.

Beef Knish from Billy’s Deli & Cafe

7. Knish This is essentially a little baked hand pie made with a thin layer of dough surrounding a filling of either mashed potatoes, ground meat, kasha, sauerkraut, mashed sweet potatoes or cheese.

Stuffed Cabbage from Canter’s Deli

8. Stuffed Cabbage aka Holishkes It can be described as meatloaf which has been wrapped in cabbage and cooked in a sweet and sour sauce. What’s not to like?

Black & White Cookie from Brent’s Deli

9. Black & White Cookie Really more cake than cookie, this saucer-shaped treat has chocolate icing on one half and vanilla icing on the other half. Jerry Seinfeld referred to these cookies as “two races of flavor living side by side in harmony.”

Poppyseed Hamataschen from Brent’s Deli

10. Hamantaschen My favorite Jewish bakery dessert is named after the triangular hat of a real life villain named Haman who tried to exterminate the Jews in ancient Persia. We celebrate his defeat by “eating his hat.” These cookies have fillings such as apricot, prune, cherry, chocolate or my favorite — poppyseed.

Halvah

11. Halvah This dense and flakey confection made with sesame seeds is an acquired taste. You can usually find them at the deli cashier’s counter next to chocolate covered raspberry jelly candies.

Dr. Brown’s Soda

12. Dr. Brown’s Soda This is the drink of choice at a Jewish deli. The flavors are Black Cherry, Cream or Cel-Ray, an old school celery seed soda that was originally developed as a tonic to promote good health. L’Chayim!

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